Vrtača (2,181 m / 7,156 ft) is the second-highest peak in the Karawanks, just behind Stol. Stretching along the border between Slovenia and Austria, the Karawanks are one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the region, and Vrtača is among their finest summits. It’s known for its long snowy slopes, fantastic panoramic views, and relatively straightforward access via Zelenica Mountain Hut.

While it’s an enjoyable summer hike, winter transforms Vrtača into a serious alpine objective that requires good judgment, proper equipment, and experience moving in snowy terrain.

Is Vrtača difficult in winter?

That depends entirely on the conditions.

In stable winter conditions, Vrtača is a demanding but manageable mountain hike.

After heavy snowfall or during periods of increased avalanche danger, however, the situation changes completely.

Some slopes are steep enough for avalanches to become a serious hazard, so checking both the weather forecast and the avalanche bulletin before setting out is essential.

If you have little or no winter hiking experience, Vrtača is not the best choice for your first winter ascent.

Starting from Zelenica

We started from Ljubelj Pass and headed towards Zelenica Mountain Hut. The route follows the line of the old ski lift, making navigation surprisingly straightforward, even in winter.

The first section climbs through beautiful forest before emerging onto the open slopes that Zelenica is famous for.

Zelenica Mountain Hut is the perfect place for a short break before continuing towards Vrtača. We actually spent the night there on our way back. A complimentary shot of homemade schnapps is almost guaranteed, and after a full day in the snow, a cold beer tastes even better. The hut is clean and comfortable, offers several accommodation options, hot showers, excellent food, and very reasonable prices.

The Final Ascent

Beyond the hut, the terrain becomes increasingly open. As you gain elevation, the views towards Begunjščica, Stol, and the Julian Alps become more spectacular with every step.

During winter there’s often an existing track, but don’t rely on it blindly. It’s surprisingly easy to wander into steeper terrain leading towards alpine climbing routes, where technical ice axes and solid winter climbing skills become necessary.

Conditions can change literally overnight.

If the snow is hard or icy, crampons and an ice axe are essential.

The View from the Summit

The panorama is one of the main reasons people keep coming back to Vrtača.

From the summit you can see:

• Stol
• Begunjščica
• Košuta
• The Julian Alps with Triglav
• The Kamnik–Savinja Alps

If you pull out a sandwich or a chocolate bar, chances are the Alpine choughs will find you within seconds. They’re so used to hikers that they’ll happily eat from your hand—or try to steal your lunch if you ignore them for too long.

How Long Does the Hike Take?

Typical hiking times:

• Ljubelj Pass – Zelenica Mountain Hut: about 1 hour
• Zelenica – Vrtača summit: 2–3 hours
• Descent: 2.5–3 hours

Total: 6–7 hours, depending on conditions and pace.

Recommended Equipment

For a winter ascent I’d recommend:

• 30–40 L backpack
• Winter hiking or mountaineering boots
• Crampons
• Ice axe
• Gaiters
• Warm clothing
• Spare gloves
• Headlamp
• Sunglasses
• Thermos

When to Go

The best winter conditions are usually from January through March.

Snow often remains on the upper slopes well into spring, so crampons and an ice axe may still be necessary.

As with any winter mountain trip, always check the weather forecast and the local avalanche bulletin before heading out.

Vrtača may not be Slovenia’s highest mountain, but it offers almost everything you could want from a winter alpine hike.

A relatively short approach, an excellent mountain hut, stunning views, and a true high-mountain winter atmosphere make it one of the best winter objectives in Slovenia.

If you’ve already completed a few easier winter hikes and you’re ready for the next step, Vrtača is an excellent choice.

Igor Bujas

I am a mountain guide, scuba diver & a striking martial arts instructor working in Zagreb Croatia.